37. Salvador, the enchantress

Salvador is not one of those cities that reveals itself in an instant. It plays hard to get, it teases, it hides in the bottom of the ravines. It slips away in a labyrinth of alleyways and steep paths that go up and down without the least respect for the contour lines they cross at a right angle.

A belfry bathed in sunlight signals you and guides you, but when after having gone down the ladeira¹ and up the opposite slope we think we have reached it, it scoffs at us from the top of the hill from where we started out.
1. Steep street.